Month: February 2019

Naturally everyone who comes to southern Germany wants to visit Neuschwanstein Castle, aka Cinderella’s Castle, the model for Disneyland/ World. Another a popular stop is Linderhof, King Ludwig’s Palace or residence as it were.  Living this close to both, I have had the pleasure of going already multiple times. The natural landscape and scenery are equally fantastic as the exterior architecture and interior opulence. Not to mention the opportunity to spend hours hiking, picnicking, taking photos or just relaxing around the grounds. Both castles from the reign of Ludwig II do not disappoint.

On the way home from picking up our vehicle from the Army Installation at Stuttgart one day last fall, we made a magical discovery.  The A7 will take you down into Austria where you will eventually head east around the mountains and back into the valley in Germany where Garmisch-Partenkirchen sits. About twenty minutes into Austria the sky was clear and as we came around to the east, I first saw not one but two imposing castle ruins, high above the valley below. As we came closer, I looked up and saw a most magnificent feat of German Engineering, Highline 179. A steel suspension bridge soaring above the roadway. I am not sure if I gasped or snorted. Most certainly I vowed to never get on it. Although in hindsight that was probably in my head.

When we arrived in this area nearly six months ago up until now, I have never heard a single mention of Ehrenberg Castle. Officially known as Burgenwelt (castle world) Ehrenberg, it is described on its website as Ehrenberg Castle Ensemble.  It includes four structures or once mighty fortifications, Klaus Fortifications, Ehrenberg Castle ruins, Fort Claudia and Schloss Kopf Fortress. Now Fort Claudia is across a deep valley where the motorway cuts through. The key to get here? Highline 179.  What an ensemble indeed.

Now when visitors ask me “can we see a castle or two”? Of course, we can! All in one day! A recent trip in the fall brought us first to Neuschwanstein.  Reserve tickets which are highly recommended are available on line for both Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau (King Maximillian’s home and Ludwig’s boyhood residence) across the street, for 25 Euro.  Book the earliest time and knock these beauties off your bucket list first thing in the AM.

From there we venture south twenty minutes into Austria to the village of Reutte. Here we find Burgenwelt Ehrenberg. This is no ordinary castle ruin where you spend ten minutes imagining what it used to look like, thirty minutes of your kids trying to climb walls creating an international incident, then everyone gets back in the car and asks, “that’s it?” This is Ehrenberg Castle Ensemble, a place that leaves nothing to the imagination and most definitely has something for everyone. Tickets, a handy map and the entrance to the museum are in the first building which is part of the Klaus Fortification. There is also a ticket kiosk on the outside of this building.

The Klaus Fortification is a unique building in and of itself. It has been modernized to have a full banquet facility in the Arena, Cellar and Tavern. It was treat the day we were there in the fall to see a bride, her maids, groom and groomsmen being entertained with a medieval style banquet and band. The music was lovely and could be heard all the way up to the Ramparts of the Ehrenberg and the Highline experience. I felt both entertained and terrified all at the same time. More on that in a moment.

Being a mom of four busy kids in different seasons of life, this is surely the kind of place, sightseeing, attraction, active day out, for me. I was always on the hunt for places that would wear those boys out whilst still offering just enough for young and old. This place has it all on offer. Once through the fortification, past a huge play area and a lovely restaurant you will find the first path to one side of the ensemble. People, you will be walking uphill mostly on a cleared path. They are in the process of adding a cable car to the top but at this writing it is not available yet. About 1/3 of the way up the path branches left and right. To the left, it will become a bit steeper but that leads to the to where the Schloss Kopf Fortress sits. This will take about thirty-five minutes to summit. To the right, a further twenty minutes will take you to the Ehrenberg ruins and the highline entrance. If you chose this route you can still reach the Schloss Kopf Fortress from a separate path from Ehrenberg which will take about fifteen minutes. Either way it is a beautiful hike through the woods and great exercise to boot.

Ehrenberg may be a ruin, but I have never seen such breathtaking views from a ruin. Some of the walls are accessible to get the most unique photos. There are placards that tell the tale of former residents, past inhabitants, and of a life gone by. If you have packed a picnic or backpack it is a great place to prost or refresh or move about and explore.  Once you have climbed every stone, explored the nooks and a gazillion pictures later….the entrance for the highline awaits. Scan your ticket and enter through the turnstile for a harrowing, I mean exhilarating experience.

I am going to fess up here. I cried. Not kidding. Remember when I said in my head, I am never getting on this. Well, it was never a thought down in the ticket kasse. I just paid for all of us without even thinking. Now I am through the turnstile and I am coaching myself. I tell myself “you love thrills”, this is true. Before two brain surgeries, I loved roller coasters, loved active sports like skiing and martial arts. I can’t even sled now so I must get my kicks, somehow right? I tell myself “you paid eight euro for this, don’t waste your money”, this is true too, I am too thrifty to not use the ticket and there will not be a refund waiting for me at the bottom.  So, we begin the journey over to Fort Claudia.

Highline 179 is 406 meters long and 114.6 meters high with a width of 1.2 meters it holds a max of 500 people at a time. That is a lot. It weighs 70 tons. It’s website brags “The slender and open construction gives visitors a unique feeling of floating”. It has been recognized but the Guinness Book of World Records as the “Longest Pedestrian Suspension Bridge in the World in Tibet Style”. Whatever. Why did I not read up on that before?

When I said this place had something for everyone, I meant it. Obviously, this bridge is optional. Fort Claudia is accessible by taking a path that leads out of the far parking lot and up the wooded hill on the other side. This trail is a red dot trail. Which to me means wear proper shoes and bring a bottle of water. Or if you are unsure, skip it.

Back to my wimpy self-tale.  It must have been only about twenty feet in and Superman says, “I am not sure about this” Are you kidding me? You are the rock, my rock.  I am still in thrifty coaching mode at this point bound to not turn back. There were two men in front of us who at some point slowed and started to show some doubt. If I was going to finished what I started I needed to pass them. So we did.

I don’t remember at any point looking all the way down. I wanted to as I could hear the lovely flowy faint music from the medieval party below. At the halfway mark Superman was much surer of himself but still asked me if I wanted to turn back. Nope. I might be a bit stubborn too, after all surely we are having fun. Well my son was for sure. He is snapping pictures left and right, down, in my face. I am sure in some of them I looked terrified or like an angry cow. Then he says “Look down Mama. The cars on the motorway look like matchbox” And that my friends, is where, I lost it. Fortunately for me it was controllable and not a blubbery ugly cry. In fact, here we were passing many eighty-year-olds with their grands, none of which looked the slightest bit distraught. My son of course thinks this is hilarious. I am quite certain he snapchatted a video of me and my tears. He did walk with me arm in arm after that with Superman brining up the rear with his hand on my back. I made it. Even had a good laugh about it after. I might even do it again. Might.

We did opt to hike down the other side on the trail through the woods instead of taking the highline back. It was a little more intense than the trip up the other side but not quite as scenic as the last third of the way down, you exit the forest and onto the roadway to the back-parking lot. Next time I will make the exhilarating trek back over the suspension bridge. Maybe.

Who’s in?  This day out will not break the bank.  You might need to wake up early, will end your day probably with a Bavarian Gatorade and a stick to your ribs dinner but I can assure you four castles and two fortresses later, you will sleep like a baby. And so will your kinders, grandma and anyone else you travel with.  Wish you were here today!

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